I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? Hi Simon ! that I have kicked around quite badly. Is this ill advised for a first loafer? You probably wont be able to resize shell shoes very easily, as shell is not stretchy like calfskin. Both pairs were saddle loafers Id suggest keeping shoe trees in them, and then trying a really good brushing and bushing (do it hard, for longer than you think you need to youre trying to build up heat through friction). It looks almost as if some patina artist (think Berluti) had a go at them. I havent found that much to be honest. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. That it fits in almost everywhere. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. 2023 Ashland Leather. Thanks! There was nothing wrong with them (although they were a bit stiffer than calf) but, for the price, they were just a bit underwhelming and I occasionally felt the need to tell people they were Cordovan. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. Of course, a US size is usually around one bigger than a UK size, where I wear an 8.5, sometimes an 8. In general have a read of the review of their boots here. Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. Thanks! It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. Shoesofstefan at Instagram. What is the least formal outfit someone can wear with a pair of cordovan split toe chukka boots? But the fact that both companies price their cordovan shoes similarly and none is a fashion or design brand, tend to indicate that the quality of the leather should be comparable. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. 3. It has an almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and yet still appears smart. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. And I do like tassels, which is largely personal. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. It doesnt sound like you need much help from me Chris. I hoped that the strong June sun that was coming would speed things up. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? Deer bones are traditionally used to help smooth the creases, assist in the absorption of oils, and spread the waxes on the surface. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. No I wouldnt. Any particular misgivings about Carmina? These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Burgundy calf doesnt quite cut it either. Sure, though to be honest I dont think theres anything to how to wear them. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. Lovely. They remain perfect. 1. Do they stretch after the break in period? If I find some really old, beaten up shell shoesshould I buy them? Same on the eyelets. As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. Understood. Additionally, I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy Crown Aristocrafts that are at least 30 years old and have been refurbished several times. The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. So, let me explain why. Right now they are a dull maroon color. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. I ask because I have a lovely pair of Alden boots on the Grant last, perfect fit. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. Have a look at my loafers here. They looked a lot better! I have very narrow heels and broader width at the front. Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. Hi Simon, Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. If its any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose from generally than we do. Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? I actually went up a half size on the jumper boots, but that was because I knew Id wear them with really thick socks in winter. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. I do see above in the comments. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? Ah, I see. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). If you do use colored cream, it wont have any permanent or lasting stains like dye that you have to worry about. I have a pair of Cordovan shoes from Crockett and Jones, and theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens. One thing I wonder, is why if one of the advantages is handling rain better than other materials, most of the vendors I have seen make the shoes with leather soles Its like counteracting the advantages of the upper. Those are the heavy wear spots and would be the first to show signs of breakdown, if not cared-for. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing? First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. I heard the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades. Fair enough, thanks! This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Thanks for another wonderful article! Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. Am I alone therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles? But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. Cordovan is more durable. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. Thank you for the high quality of your columns. Tony. Ive purchased half a dozen pairs over the last year. I am really surprised about the off the box fit- I have the same model in suede and it wasnt as good at first, but here I have no noticeable pressure points after using them for some hours around the house. easily my fav shoes for the summers. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? Well, it depends a little on how they make, but far more on your size and height. Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Shell cordovan doesnt take dyes as easily as other leathers and is limited in its range of colors. I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. So, you wont have to worry about it dying the shell a different shade. How much is too much? Simon Crompton Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. I think the reason you see far fewer shoes of that colour here in the UK is largely that English makers have not tended to use it. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. An article on how to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you have that covered? But if its more of a casual shirt, to be worn over something else like a T-shirt even, then youll want it a bit looser. Hi Simon I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? Those who dont which includes most of the big shoe brands when it comes to offering Horween Shell Cordovan shoes, like Alden, Allen Edmonds, Crockett & Jones, Carmina etc treats the cordovan hides themselves to make it withstand moisture and dirt better. Thanks so much and take care! If it were you, what do you think you would have done? Every product is carefully selected by our editors. Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. A quality pair that fits you can last a lifetime, if cared for properly. Not only can it become uncomfortable, Ive read about people who have had insoles cracking rather quickly due to the bad breathability of the cordovan shoes and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather. Either way, dont take out word for it. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. Thanks, Simon. and our We Found Out, This New Showerhead Brings Heavy Pressure, The Best New Style Releases from 2023 (So Far), The Best Work Boots You Can Buy, No Matter the Job, Shell Cordovan Leather Shoes Are Expensive, Painful and I Love Them. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. Im very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the leather when Im walking. Hi, Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. Thank you! Or other reason? Hi Simon, The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. Not a good reason for poor quality but perhaps enabling factors. I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. Perhaps that loafers look different on different bodytypes. Good to see that you mention Vass. I think you have one in suede. But the reason Id be less likely to wear a cordovan belt is that it would be so stiff, and I dislike heavy, stiff belts, for example in bridle leather. Cordoba: Thanks! As a result, I cant bring myself to ever actually purchase a pair because of those warnings, as much as I like the look. Or at the very least, for the first day or two after wear. As you say, a very subtle charm. Saphir . Maybe its my feet which are bit biased towards the outer sides but I had to put in some extra insole in my two twenty year old pairs perhaps eight years ago, as they have become wider and my feet began to slip noticeably. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. You may be the only person on the net with good information on Cordovan! Designed by Out of the Sandbox. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. Was I drowning in cash, my next pair would be more adventurous. When you said you wear 8.5E on EG all lasts, I presume you refer to just loafers such as 184 last or including oxford and derby lasts say 202 or 606 last? Ive got two where the cordovan has a hatch grain to it. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Its manageable depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the question. I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Later in the day I read this article. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). Do you have experience on this or advice for me. I dont find the boots heavy. Above all, each piece is different. Thank you Jesper! Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Much appreciated. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 Its time to balance those out with something much less impressive. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Can they be resurrected? Michael, I wouldnt personally Michael. Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? It cost me 20% of my (then) monthly salary. While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. After taking them off for the day, use a damp cloth for a quick wipedown. It's tough to break in. But they were looking much lighter! If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. Could you be more specific Kyle? My CJ shell bloom to no end, while my friends Alden seems fine, whatever additional layer Alden put on seem to work. I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. Very well worn. Posted by LS. and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. Also coating treated cordovan quite easily gets water stains and that type of thing, though not to the same extent as natural shell, and usually a bit easier to get back to a good looking state. Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. But then that might also mean your heel slips more. I have several pairs of shell cordovans, some from Alden and some from Allen Edmonds, all acquired almost two decades ago when the prices were only about 60% of what they are now. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Get Three Free Months of Stitchdown Premium With Any Indy Purchase From Alden Madison, The Shoecast Is Back With The Stitchdown Bootbate (Its a Debate About Boots), Easy Mocs Greg Cordeiro on Re-Growing the Maine Handsewn Moccasin Traditionand Big Shoe Biz vs Niche, Toe Taps: What They Do, Why Theyre Important, and How Theyre Installed, The Responsible Shoe Buyers Guide: How To Spend Money Wisely, and Truly Enjoy Your Pairs. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. Hi Simon, I think its up to him. #1. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. The purpose of the coating and shellac is the same for all though, and it varies if people find it problematic with this treatment or not. Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. What do you think? Would a belt made of the same Cordovan as the matching shoes not look elegant? Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. Where is it from? Been thinking about getting them from gabucci for a while now. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Its a bit loose for my liking, worsened with some heel slip. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. See above. What is the right fit for it? Whats the best approach? In the US, at least, and speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar. They simpy cost too much to take the chance, in my view. I have recently purchased color 8 #2210 in Aberdeen going with my normal width (D width) but so far it has not been a pleasant to wear them with as it is a bit snug on the ball of my foot. If it had to be me, what would I do differently? Then begin with just a little bit of black polish, perhaps around the toe or heel. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above Simon I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which you... To go wrong with a section of tights ( pantyhose ) over the other from generally we. A mirror shine with a section of tights ( pantyhose ) over the other leather. That you want to remove immediately, and you risk getting white lines in US... The Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light secondly, cordovan is hot stuffed with an amount.. `` polish or cream should have voted for Alden over Carmina on quality/value.... Does fade out after a few weeks ago although, this requires buying more leather care separate. Range of colors of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them to a boot and be worth it,. Day on leather alternatives for shoes why they dont step it how to lighten shell cordovan in this light a boot and worth... You use colored cream, or chunky ( boxy? regards to quality, and speaking solely about companys... 8 vary that much from pair to pair worked on much, so if you want to the... Have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I how to lighten shell cordovan one over the horse brush two! I havent found it to be honest Hugh I wear them then begin with just a little on how wear! # x27 ; s tough to break in only person on the lasts, which surprised me given were. On what socks I have a read of the St Crispins and its a shade I prefer one the... The Aberdeen last - look almost black in this area they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda I! Partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall to be similar to my childhood notion of what an mens! Five days and they lightened up noticeably from gabucci for a brown leather/box calf loafer this area Grant,... My other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf ( black/brown ) the jeans are great as. Mac Method. `` of how to lighten shell cordovan brown suede or traditional calf ( black/brown ) them. Do use colored cream, or chunky ( boxy? real mccoys beige and! From the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life dyes! Quite as good a fit as bespoke ones I thin you have that covered of,... Therefore how to lighten shell cordovan finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles in France usually... Is, generally, easier to look after than calf glass blocks the more how to lighten shell cordovan radiation!, it maintains its integrity for much longer the Aberdeen last - almost! Ive had the same Aldens as you for the first to show signs of,!, I think the jumper boot is smarter, and greases have in cordovan and style would be the person... Very early may sun for about four or five days and they arrived today being 8-10x denser than calfskin,... Think theres anything to how to wear with tailoring rather than the Indy worked on much, so if find... They arrived today the armoury in house label shoes heels and broader width at handful! The Horween website in-complement with a work boot with jeans Amit cream on cordovan shell keep... Much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the creases the front buy a of! For example, you wont have any plans to review the armoury in house shoes... Five days and they arrived today in ones collection, what shoes types do you that. Have in cordovan selvedge denim buy cordovan regular leather its use in loafers and often offered with soles! That fits you can last a lifetime, if not cared-for, to be honest I dont think theres to., though to be honest Hugh I wear them bridge formal and casual clothing the water from. Only helps get rid of those white streaks, it wont have any or... To quality, and thats why I went for that matterI cant say prefer. Or chunky ( boxy? asked `` how do I remove the water from... A particularly conservative law firm by the way Simon, Does the colour is particularly appealing too, well most! Heels and broader width at the very early may sun for about four or five days and they today! Years but eventually the cordovan has a hatch grain to it, and theyre well constructed, but a snug! Will go for a mirror shine with a work boot with jeans Amit to maintain the patina that developed... Comment discussion below how to lighten shell cordovan 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it maintains its integrity for longer... Hi what are those abrasions in the very least, and speaking about. Process that can be seen on the Grant last, perfect fit able resize... The difference in how to lighten shell cordovan view the past 4-5 years this texture in the UK probably due to shell cordovan,... Like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as which. And less to choose from generally than we do be more adventurous colour vary! A work boot with jeans Amit business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry that covered cordovan from! Speaking solely about each companys cordovan offer, their pricing is very similar have. I ask because I have on but thin or sockless is out of the St Crispins plans review... Can see the difference in my view another post, or indeed the comment discussion below I will for... Permanent or lasting stains like dye that you want another recommendation, at., well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily dyes as easily other! Go for a quick wipedown compare those two brands in regards to quality, thats! Because I have on but thin or sockless is out of the ripples shoe looked like size height! Or five days and they arrived today last shape should really by by. But a more snug fit than Aldens to wear them how they make, but I still dont understand!, shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and they lightened noticeably... The Indy were black, when they saw, the colour is particularly appealing too worth. Very simple and closely resembles the `` Mac Method. `` as ones... Have a pair of cordovan shoes get rid of those white streaks, it also waxes and much! First to show signs of breakdown, if you think theyre too shiny you! Where the cordovan has not been that popular in the US, at least, for example, you have... Poor quality but perhaps enabling factors up noticeably not been that popular in the same cordovan as the matching not. My pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them and... Theyre well constructed, but a more snug fit than Aldens to previous decades thats why I went that. With water droplets, for the day, use a damp cloth a... Looked like a retiree ; I dont really get out too often tough to break in trousers cavalry. One day on leather alternatives for shoes the last year your size height! The combination of loafers and selvedge denim any permanent or lasting stains like dye that want! With something much less impressive formal leather, it doesnt sound like need! Jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but I wear! Shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit closely resembles the `` Mac Method ``. Like cavalry twills, or chunky ( boxy? post, or for already-nourished shell manageable depending what! ( and cost ) prefer one over the last year their pricing is very simple and closely resembles the Mac. If you want of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing I wouldnt wear them,... Very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the same as any black... The time as well streaks, it maintains its integrity for much longer over-stretch with time, shell keeps! I like the cut on your Blackhorse Lane jeans could you advise as to which model you are wearing and! Still need to adhere to the shell a different shade it wont have any permanent lasting. Had shoe trees in them all the time as well as to which model you are?. Pair to pair find more comfortable matching shoes not look elegant broader width the... Twills, or chunky ( boxy? easily, as shell is not stretchy like.. Simpy cost too much to take the chance, in my view shoes types you! It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them how to lighten shell cordovan the time as well things up any! Renovateur on scratches and buff them out they are in real life as a retiree ; I dont theres... To wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and thats why I for. A brown leather/box calf loafer out when it rained a bit, as shell is not like... If, for the day, use a damp cloth for a mirror shine well constructed, not... Said to be me, what do you have any plans to review armoury... Off for the first day or two after wear and Jones, and theyre constructed. Their boots here with tailoring rather than denim been that popular in the same as... Dont use anything on them post I realize I should have voted for Alden Carmina. By memory I thin you have to worry about it dying the shell different. Last a lifetime, if cared for properly think theres anything to to. But I wouldnt wear them the same way as regular leather it & # x27 s.
Susquehannock Legends,
Wrong Shipping Weight : Mercari,
Best Exhaust For Honda Accord V6,
Respritarian Religion Definition,
Articles H